Rested after last night's exertions we begin our day with, and some will think it sad, a personal tour of a fish processing plant. Well we did ask to see something of the local industry and the docks are closed to us. Our trip we are advised does rather intrude into the restricted zone... just don't flash your cameras. Yuri, a director, is our guide proving to be an engaging host as we are shown the most modern of plants turning out high quality products. No ethnic cottage industry this. This place has history that provides just cause and reason for commemoration and we pause a while at another impressive memorial site before paying our respects at the British and foreign military cemeteries. We discover the floorboards of the Cultural Museum creak in unison. John's knees are no match. Gold leafed icons everywhere glisten in the candlelight provided by penitent worshipers at mass in the small Orthrodox cathedral overlooking the Kursk submarine memorial. Valentina kindly invites us to meet her friends at the"Red Pub" this evening... we are pleased to accept the challenge of their conversational English. She has been absolutely splendid. We've remained fully clothed and but for a beer and something to eat our day is concluded. Tomorrow the "Sputnik" service bus to northern Norway will be our next adventure.