30.06.12 Thursday midnight
Alan "line 'em up lads" McViety organises our drinks. His word a little later with the barman brings in the muscle necessary to pin down the man who downed Roger's drink and lifted his phone. I pick up the bar stools. We'll call by the cash point in the morning. I've drawn the short straw and am bunking with Roger who entertains by missing his bed at his first attempt. His second succeeds. I agree to tell nobody... he'll never remember asking. 24 hour daylight.

30.06.12 Friday morning
For some breakfast is a slow affair. Valentina our excellent guide tactfully takes us quietly through the memorial museum of the "Navy of the North". Later over coffee, in a place we could not have found by ourselves, we ask "do many English come here?" "I think, in this district, English people don't come at all" was her considered reply. One up on Micheal Palin. A tour of the nuclear icebreaker Lenin gives a restored Roger the opportunity to ask technical questions.
As Upper Eden club assemble for their change-over dinner we assemble with members of Murmansk club, stark naked save for a strange felt hat. They call it "banya", beat us with birch twigs and feed us dried fish pieces. Tremendous. Some call it fellowship. It rained not and the sun does not set... things are looking up.